This crisp nasturtium lawn... Climbing annual vines. Green manure as a previous crop Can nasturtium bushes be used as green manure?

HIGH-YIELDING TOMATO VARIETIES FOR GREENHOUSES: REVIEW OF GROUPS, HYBRIDS AND GROWING FEATURES Of the wide variety of tomato varieties offered to farmers and amateur vegetable growers, it is impossible to unambiguously recommend only some and ignore others, because the preferences of a particular person are subjective. And this is understandable: each of us has our own criteria for evaluating the tomatoes we grow, but everyone always chooses the most productive tomatoes for greenhouses. In areas with different climates, the conditions for cultivating tomatoes (even in farm greenhouses) are different, so the most popular are specific, zoned varieties, which enjoy well-deserved attention from most gardeners. - Indeterminate varieties are ideal for greenhouses - vigorous bushes form into one stem. - Determinate tomatoes for greenhouses require constant pruning of shoots. Each hybrid is prone to one of these 2 types of development, so we need to correct plant growth in time, starting right from the seedlings. According to the type of growth, TOMATOES are divided into 2 GROUPS: - with vegetative development, - with generative development. As a rule, well-known seed manufacturing companies provide the following starting information on the packaging: the main characteristics and individual characteristics of a particular variety. For low greenhouses for tomatoes with a standard (up to 2.5 m) ridge height, we will choose tall varieties of tomatoes with shortened internodes, and we will form them into 2 stems. When the bushes grow to the trellis, each shoot will already have 3 brushes. We will send out additional shoots from the seedlings under the very first cluster. Typically, tall and large-fruited tomatoes exhibit a vegetative type of growth. We plant seedlings of hybrids and varieties with this vegetative type of development with the first two racemes flowering in order to prevent fattening of the plants, which reduces the yield of tomatoes in the greenhouse. REVIEW OF VARIETIES ONLY FOR GREENHOUSE PURPOSE MEDIUM AND HIGH YIELDING VARIETIES 1. Intuition F1 - with 1 stem and unlimited growth, a mid-season hybrid of truss tomatoes: only 110 days pass from the first shoots to fruiting. Round, smooth fruits weighing over 100 g do not crumble even after ripening, do not crack, and their high sugar content is ideal for canning and fresh salads. 2. Kostroma F1 is a two-meter mid-early hybrid, already 106 after germination we collect a friendly and abundant harvest of flat-round fruits weighing 150 g, and up to 5 kg per bush. This plant is resistant to viruses and changes in humidity and temperature. 3. Rosemary F1: within 115 days after sprouting, large (400g), pink, smooth fruits ripen for delicious salads. Their flesh is juicy, tender, and has a “melting” consistency. Productivity reaches 11 kg per plant. 4. Chio-chio-san - a mid-season hybrid with unlimited growth, hung with huge branched clusters, with 50 fruits on each. Pink, plum-shaped tomatoes weighing up to 40 g delight us with an excellent dessert taste and four kilograms of such fruits per bush. The variety is not susceptible to tobacco mosaic disease. 5. Blagovest F1 is a one and a half meter tall, early ripening hundred day hybrid. One plant produces 5 kg of round fruits weighing over 100 g each. 6. Verlioka F1 - one and a half meter, early ripening hundred-year-old with round fruits up to 100 g each and 5 kg per bush. This tomato is great for canning and fresh salads. As the personal experience of gardeners proves, the most productive varieties of tomatoes for a greenhouse are numerous: their list can include dozens of other hybrids and varieties of tomatoes, even for one region. INTERESTING NEW VARIETIES 1. Siberian F1 - a late-ripening, single-stem hybrid with unlimited growth produces a yield of up to 5 kg in 4.5 months. Its flat-round, smooth, aromatic tomatoes are unique in size - up to 2.8 kg, and their taste is harmonious, dessert. The plant is not susceptible to diseases such as cladosporiosis and fusarium. 2. Ural F1: This indeterminate tomato with unlimited growth for the Ural region will produce the first tasty, sweet tomatoes for salads in just 4 months. Up to 25 flat-round fruits weighing 350 g grow on 1 bush. 3. Shaolin F1 is a plant with a medium ripening period: after 115 days, the first large (up to 400 g), pink, beautiful tomatoes, intended for salad purposes, ripen on powerful low bushes. Their pulp is tender, juicy, as if melting, with an abundance of provitamin A. The average yield is 10 kg per plant. Kamchatka F1 is a one and a half meter mid-season (110 days before fruiting) variety with attractive and tasty round fruits weighing up to 150 g, stored for up to 2 months. The hybrid is resistant to all viral pathogens dangerous to these plants. All of these listed productive varieties of tomatoes for greenhouses have already been appreciated by experienced vegetable growers and are leaders in the sale of seeds, especially since they are not very demanding on care. GREENHOUSE RUSH TOMATOES (We collect their fruits with tassels, like grapes in clusters). This type is gaining well-deserved popularity. Breeders have successfully bred the following hybrids: Fatalist, Fan, Vladimir and others. FEATURES: - A valuable feature of this type is its high strength: we can transport the crop anywhere, but the tomatoes do not spoil or crack. - The fruits on the cluster are often the same size: 100 - 200 g. - Such greenhouse tomatoes with clusters are absolutely resistant to the diseases characteristic of these plants, so we do not have to spend money on purchasing various preventive chemicals. THE MOST POPULAR Of course, it is almost impossible to list all the high-yielding varieties of tomatoes for the greenhouse - after all, breeders delight us with their new achievements. Among them, De Barao red and Hybrid Ivanhoe F1 stand out. It is believed that these varieties in a greenhouse produce over 20 kg of fruit from 1 bush. DE BARAO - For De Barao, the norm is 30 kg per plant, and the record is 70 kg. - Even in open ground, this variety, under normal conditions and proper care, produces 10 kilograms per bush in the hot summer. - Its smooth fruits are of medium size with a weight of 150 g and are very tasty fresh and canned. - However, the hybrid is very demanding on the microclimate and grows poorly on infertile, heavy clay or loamy soils. - Breeders have pleased gardeners with original early varieties of tomatoes for greenhouses, which are not inferior in yield. But they have a different color, indicated in their very name: De Barao yellow, pink or black. SEMKO-SINBAD F1 One of the most popular early ripening hybrids was Semko-Sinbad F1. - In terms of early ripening, it is not inferior to the Hurricane variety, in which the first tomatoes turn red already on the 80th day from the seedlings pecking. - Ovaries on the plant are also formed without additional measures. Its inflorescence contains 8 red fruits weighing up to 100 g with an average yield of about 10 kg per 1 sq. m. HYBRID IVENGO F1 The new salad tomato surprises with its productivity: the fruits on its clusters are like on a well-groomed bunch of grapes. - All tomatoes are bright red and do not shrink closer to the top of the bush, providing excellent harvest without the use of growth stimulants. - The taste of the fruits of this hybrid is much better than other greenhouse counterparts, and the bush itself is large, with powerful thick stems. - Ivanhoe, with its high yield, practically does not get sick and is resistant to fungi, tomato mosaic, nematode, and verticillium. - Especially valuable for lovers of natural farming: it gives an excellent harvest without the use of chemicals. - And this variety actually has no disadvantages, only the price of its seeds is higher. And we won’t put tomatoes in regular jars - they are very large. ALHAMBRA Its excellent productivity is successfully combined with another advantage - the brushes do not refract. - The taste of tomatoes is excellent. - This variety bears maximum fruit in heated greenhouses from April to January, forming ten-meter vines. CARE OF HIGH YIELD TOMATOES We monitor the load of plants directly with fruits and regulate it in a timely manner, taking into account the characteristics of the variety. FEEDING 1. It is advisable to carry out agrotechnical regulation of the development of bushes only with their balanced nutrition. 2. Please note! Experience shows that it is better to limit nitrogen before the formation of the first bunch of fruit, especially in plants with vegetative development. 3. 1 week before planting the seedlings in the garden greenhouse, stop feeding them, and after planting, we will do the first feeding in 2 weeks. 4. During the growing season, we regularly add, as the instructions recommend, phosphorus and potassium (wood ash is well suited for this purpose, and to simplify the process of feeding plants, it is best to immediately add 2 large handfuls of ash into each hole immediately when planting seedlings), during flowering It is advisable to sprinkle the same wood ash around each tomato bush (this will also help protect the plants from verticillium wilt). Next, when the fruits set on the first two clusters, it is necessary to apply nitrogen liquid fertilizers for active growth of the fruits. During this period, we feed with a solution of mullein or bird droppings, and an infusion of weeds with an EM preparation is also good. 5. In case of excessive vegetation, we apply root feeding with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. 6. With accelerated generative development, we will do 2 feedings with fermented weeds - this will speed up the ripening of unexpectedly numerous fruits in cool weather. CARING FOR SEARCHES - Shoots will appear in a week, and we will reduce the temperature to +18C. - Water with warm, settled water once every 3 days. - To rid the sprouts of root rot, we use biological products. - When a true leaf appears, place the seedlings one at a time in plastic or peat pots. CARE OF PLANTS - We place seedlings in a row on the ground every 50 centimeters, and between their rows - 60 cm. - Please note! Seedlings of large-fruited tomatoes are placed in heated shelters 50 days after germination, and in unheated shelters in May. - Add 0.5 kg of humus into the hole. - We will tie up the overgrown bushes with a trellis, thrown over a 5 mm wire stretched along the rows. - Next, we simply twist the trellis with our own hands as the bush grows, water it, and after flowering, feed it with ready-made balanced organic matter 2 times a month. - We will tie up large-fruited tomatoes - these high-yielding varieties need such support. - We regularly remove shoots from the leaf axil. - We collect fruits that are brown, since their complete redness depletes the plant. CONCLUSION - Experienced gardeners experiment with several varieties of tomatoes at once, because a specific soil and region have their own productive hybrids. - When choosing varieties, we take into account the characteristics of the greenhouse and growing conditions. - Traditional and proven greenhouse tomatoes are good, but new varieties are more hardy and productive with easy care. - We buy large packages of the selected variety and plant half of the seeds; if the result is successful, we sow the remaining seeds for the next year.

One of the basic rules for the successful use of green manure in a summer cottage is compliance with crop rotation. Simply put, you cannot sow related plants one after another. In order to:

Firstly, do not create favorable conditions for the development of diseases,
Secondly, neutralize the so-called colins (bioactive substances secreted by roots that inhibit the development of other plants).

Therefore, when planning to plant this or that “green fertilizer” on a garden bed, do not forget what grew in this bed BEFORE and what you plan to plant AFTER. To help you, we publish a compatibility table for green manure and main vegetable crops.

Cruciferous green manures (mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, etc.) are considered the most “problematic”; they are categorically not recommended to be sown as a precursor for all types of cabbages - you can easily lose the harvest.

Phacelia is recognized as the most versatile green manure. It has no related cultivated plants, so it can be grown before or after any vegetables.

Compatibility of green manure and vegetable crops

Culture	The best green manures	You cannot sow as green manure

	Lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, vetch, clover.
Phacelia.	Mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed.
Annual lupine, mustard, phacelia, oats.
Mustard, oats, vetch, peas, annual lupine.
Cabbages of all kinds		Mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed.
Oilseed radish, mustard, rapeseed, oats.	Sunflower.
Onion	Mustard, rapeseed, lupine, vetch, clover.	Corn, sunflower.
Oilseed radish, mustard, rapeseed, rapeseed.
Mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed, peas, vetch.
Oats, watercress, lupine, peas, alfalfa, vetch, phacelia.
Annual lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, vetch, clover.
Annual lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, vetch, clover.	Watercress, mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed.
Mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed.	Corn, vetch, alfalfa, lupine, sweet clover, beans, peas, lentils, clover.
Tomato	Calendula, vetch, mustard, lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, clover.
Mustard, oats, vetch, peas, annual lupine, corn.
Mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed.	Lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, vetch, clover.
Mustard, phacelia.	Lupine, beans, sainfoin, soybeans, lentils, seradella, peas, chickpeas, alfalfa, sweet clover, vetch, clover.

In addition, before sowing green manure plants, pay attention to the soil of your site, ask yourself what you would like to change. Are your plants stunted and pale green and do you need to enrich the soil with nitrogen? Plant legumes that contain colonies of nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their roots. Is the soil very dense and would you like to loosen it? Cereals with their powerful root system will help you. They will also cope with sodding of flooded areas. Need to get rid of weeds? Rye effectively suppresses all “neighbors”. Tired of wireworms, nematodes, and in general it would be nice to improve the soil? Use mustard, oilseed radish, calendula or nasturtium.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Green manure is a group of plants that are grown not for harvest, but to enrich the soil with organic matter and improve its structure.

Green manure is sown in two ways:
The earth is loosened, and then the selected plants are planted in the furrows and covered again. Most often this method is used in summer and spring.
When planting in autumn, the seeds are simply scattered over the surface of the soil, without subsequent planting.

Green manure can be planted throughout the gardening season, as the beds become vacant.

The following green manure crops are most often planted:

Oilseed radish (cruciferous family)

When sown at the end of July and beginning of August, the plant has time to build up a good amount of green mass before the onset of the first frost. Due to the fact that radish grows very quickly, it does not allow weeds, including wheatgrass, to develop.

Oilseed radish helps to destroy pathogens of certain diseases that multiply in the soil. It is unpretentious to soils.

Restriction: after sowing it, crops from the cruciferous family cannot be planted in this bed next season.

White mustard

The plant is very actively growing green mass. Loves watering. Prefers non-acidic loams and sandy loams. The root of the plant goes to a depth of three meters.

After the mustard blooms, it is mowed, crushed and dug in. Next season, it is best to plant onions in this bed.

Lupine

An ornamental plant that produces a large amount of greenery. Since the root goes deep into the soil (up to two meters), it lifts a huge amount of nutrients to the surface.

Lupine belongs to the legume family, and therefore has characteristic root growths where nitrogen reserves are located. After lupine, the beds can be used for growing all crops, but plants that are especially demanding of nitrogen content in the soil.

Lupines produce the maximum amount of greenery during the flowering period, but the largest amount of nitrogen accumulates when the pods set. It is during this period that lupine must be mowed, crushed and buried in the soil. Planting depth is 15...20 cm.

Nasturtium

The plant is recommended to be planted in the tree trunks of fruit trees, as well as all shrubs. Planting rate is 2...3 plants per square meter. The flower dies in the fall, but its root system is very attractive to earthworms. In addition, green aphids really don’t like nasturtium.

Cereals (winter wheat, oats)

They help improve the physical properties of the soil, and also enrich its composition with nitrogen, potassium and organic matter.

Cereals like green manure will be good predecessors for vegetables such as eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes.

The plant very quickly gains volume of green mass, and the subsequent addition of chopped grass helps enrich the soil with organic matter, potassium and phosphorus.

Buckwheat is often used as green manure in the trunks of bushes and fruit trees.

After the green manure has grown, there is no need to bury the plants (except those that need to be plowed in any case) into the soil. Leave them in the beds until spring, because after the snow melts they will again be empty, but the soil will already receive all the substances it needs and will remain loose.

For several weeks now, the weekend has been painful: every Saturday and Sunday I go to the nearby OBI and have not yet bought anything there for the dacha. I just grit my teeth and walk past the rows of plants and go straight towards the tiles and plumbing fixtures. I'm having a renovation...

It cannot be said that the world has rocked, or that the renovation is so terrible. But time eats up. You think that today you only need to choose a toilet, you need to get up early in the morning. You get up on Sunday at eight, leave at nine and come back at five in the evening, gray, melancholic, without a push, but with a new laminate...

Today I was choosing wallpaper. I finally realized that nothing has changed since Soviet times, only then it was necessary to get it, and now to choose. It didn’t take long to choose, about an hour and a half, but when we got to the checkout we found out that there wasn’t enough of this wallpaper, and it was unclear when it would be available. We went to another store - it was even sadder there, then to a third. In the end, I bought wallpaper to paint. If I don’t like the chosen color, I’ll repaint it. You might even like it. I will repurpose the diary...

And everywhere at the cash registers in OBI there are flowers, pots, garden accessories, everything is new, not expired. Although I would now rummage through the boxes of seeds with the inscription “all for 5 rubles” Because I just dream of buying expired nasturtium. There was none at the All-Russian Exhibition Center - expired cucumbers - the sea, carrots - the ocean, a lot of begonias and asters, but no nasturtium. Just like with wallpaper... I went around ten points last month: Is there any expired nasturtium?, is there any old nasturtium?...

And that’s it, at the lecture on annuals in the part concerning beautiful flowering vinesOlga Khanbabaeva praised her very much, although she admitted that nasturtium is not a flower of the front part, and in many gardens it is considered an element of the “grandmother’s plot.” But nasturtium is so undemanding and cold-resistant that it is still popular. Plus it's edible.

Although I think the problem with nasturtium is that its leaves, which actually have a pleasant, slightly pungent taste, ripen too late, when there is already a lot of dill and parsley. But you won’t specially sow a bed of nasturtiums in your garden? Although you can definitely try. Many people know that its unripe seeds are an excellent substitute for capers. Only now the question is - why do I need these capers?

Nasturtium interested me in another way - Khanbabaeva once mentioned in passing - nasturtium is an excellent ground cover and green manure. I don’t know about the first one, but you can’t really jump on nasturtium like you can on clover. But second...

It so happened that on the same day I talked with my aunt, who, without her own garden, grows flowers and vegetables on the balcony, and she said yes, nasturtium - it greatly enriches the soil. She (my relative) simply has a waste-free conveyor in one of the balcony containers - early in the spring she plants onions in it for greens, gradually eats the feathers with her family and sows nasturtiums in the empty space.

Nasturtium blooms in her balcony until October, then she doesn’t pull it out, but simply embeds it in the same soil and leaves it on the balcony. And in the spring everything repeats itself - onions are planted in the ground with rotten nasturtium stems... So I regret that I did not collect my seeds from last year, otherwise I would have sowed nasturtium in the backyard in June, when the soil warms up. In my opinion, it would be beautiful - half of the turf area in phacelia, half in nasturtium...

This is the kind of useful information I get from lectures on floriculture. And I still wanted to leave, especially when the lecturer began the lesson with these words, that the three conditions for growing beautiful flowering vines are:

1 Light: annual vines grow poorly in the shade

2 Good soil: Beautiful vines do not grow in poor soils

3 Support

But then I stopped because the first vine was a story about sweet peas, which I plant for their aroma next to a septic tank. Well, then the nasturtium went, and then it was kind of stupid to leave, although I didn’t particularly need most of the vines. But I decided to leave a recording of the lecture here - what if next year I decide to sow something other than nasturtium and peas? I didn’t write it down in detail - the topic is not very close to me.

Sweet pea

Grows up to 3 meters, legume family. Flowering from June to mid-August. Breeders have developed many varieties and hybrids, but there are no yellow sweet peas yet.

There is no need to rush with sowing - after March 15-20 (it’s necessary now!). Sow directly into the pot, you can soak for 4 to 12 hours or bubble. Plant two sprouts per hole. In the ground - after May 25. Superficial root system. Fertilizing is only mineral, so that sweet peas bloom and do not gain green mass.

Ipomoea purpurea

Strong vine up to 8 meters. There is no red and green, what is sold under the guise of red morning glory is its other species, called quamoclite. Flowering begins in June. Sometimes it self-sows on sandy soils. Sowing in March, preferably in separate containers. Germination is good. 1-2 plants per square meter, not close to the facade - the facade will rot.

Kvamoklit pinnate (Ipomoea quamoklit)

Less vigorous vine, 2-3 meters. The flowers are bright red, looking like ordinary morning glory. It can be grown indoors; the Japanese love it very much.

Nasturtium

The secret to the germination of nasturtium seeds is their old age. The more it lies, the better the germination. You can sow directly into the ground in April. Blooms from June to September. I’ve already retold the rest, cover crop, green manure and overall darling...

Decorative beans (Turkish beans)

Inedible (and therefore completely incomprehensible to me) beans with red flowers. Used to transition to the vegetable garden area. Also a green manure crop (like all legumes). Grows up to 3 meters. Lands after May 20th.

Kobeya

I planted it last year, but never saw it bloom. This year I decided not to sow it yet - I need to read more about the successful experience of growing it in the Moscow region.

In order for the kobeya to sprout, it must be soaked and the mucus that appears must be removed. For seedlings - early March. Plant 2-3 plants in one hole. The roots can be stored like dahlias in sand with carrots. This is a decorative accent for autumn.

Azarina Climbing

Norichnikov family, sowing before March 15th. It is not afraid of frost, becomes stronger by June, and blooms closer to August.

Personally, I will sow from decorative (and non-decorative) annual vines:

1. Vegetable and green beans. I really liked Bluehilda, it’s not a vegetable, but a decorator’s dream

2. Nasturtium

3. Sweet peas (because they are fragrant),

4. Dolichos (I still want to get beans),

5. Crazy cucumber (because it smells like linden and I still want to taste its fruit)

We grow all vegetables and berries for the sake of harvest - fruits, tubers, berries. To produce this yummy, plants spend a lot of nutrients. Of course, we apply various fertilizers, but in addition to the set of minerals after vegetables and long-term planting of berries, when they grow in one place for more than three years, the structure and fertility of the soil deteriorate.

The humus layer becomes depleted, the number of beneficial microorganisms and earthworms decreases. The soil becomes compacted, sometimes almost cemented, the roots no longer receive enough oxygen, and the plants become sick.

In order to improve the structure and fertility of the soil, sowing green manure is used.

What is the value of green manure

saturation of the soil with nutrients
restoration of soil organic matter, humus layer
reduction in the number of pathogens and pests
weed development delay
soil moisture retention and loosening
snow retention and soil weathering prevention
protection against return frosts in spring

Phacelia sown before winter

Which green manures are better

In fact, there are no ideal green manures - different plantings require their own plants. It’s easy to explain - green manures belong to different families of plants and have their own characteristics, for example, in order to clear an area of clubroot, after cabbage you cannot plant other cruciferous vegetables: radishes, turnips, as well as white mustard or oilseed radish.

In addition, different plants have different germination times, growing cycles, and soil requirements.

For example, among legumes, peas grow better on light sandy loam soil, but poorly on heavy soil. It is more advisable to plant beans and beans on loam.

Green manure by family

legumes: lupine, beans, soybeans, lentils, field and field peas, alfalfa, sweet clover, spring and winter vetch, clover, broad beans, sainfoin, soybeans, seradella, peas, chickpeas, clover.
Cruciferous vegetables: rapeseed, rapeseed, oilseed radish, white mustard
cereals: wheat, rye, barley, oats
buckwheat: buckwheat
Compositae: sunflower
waterfolia (hydrophilus): phacelia

In addition, green manures of different families have different functionality:

legumes specialize in fixing nitrogen from the air
Cruciferous and cereals fix nitrogen from the soil, convert other minerals into a more accessible form, and prevent soil demineralization
increase the humus layer with a large leaf mass as a green fertilizer - rapeseed, rapeseed
lupine, phacelia, buckwheat, oats, alfalfa - can reduce soil acidity
legumes, annual ryegrass, phacelia, sunflower, white mustard, oilseed radish, calendula, nasturtium - capable of suppressing nematodes and a number of pathogens
all green manures loosen the soil with their roots, especially lupine, beans, and oilseed radish
Almost all green manures suppress the growth of weeds due to sowing density or rapid growth
annual ryegrass, phacelia, sunflower, mustard are also excellent honey plants

Compatibility of green manure and vegetables

Nightshades: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, and melons: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, squash - grow well after green manures such as rye, oats, lupine, oilseed radish, mustard, sweet clover, vetch-oat mixture, rapeseed, phacelia, ryegrass annual.
The best predecessors for beets are mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, vetch, and cereals. Bad green manure predecessors: corn and legumes (vetch, alfalfa, lupine, sweet clover, clover, etc.) and rapeseed - due to the risk of nematode infection.
For carrots, all crops are good, but the best are oilseed radish, mustard, rapeseed, and rapeseed.
Green manure for cabbage, daikon, radish, turnip: sweet clover, vetch, lupine, phacelia, buckwheat, oats, clover, peas, as well as cereals.
Onions can be planted in beds where green manures were buckwheat, lupine, vetch and vetch-oat mixture, barley, phacelia, but in general, the predecessors for onion and garlic can be any green manure except corn and sunflower.
But garlic is more capricious - the best green manures for it are phacelia and mustard. It is not advisable to plant garlic after any legume green manure.
Before planting legumes (peas, beans), you can sow mustard, oilseed radish, rapeseed, rapeseed, but not other legumes.
The best green manures for strawberries: lupine, mustard, phacelia, oats.

What green manures to sow in the fall

If you have already decided which vegetables will be planted in which plot, bed or greenhouse for the next season, the main crop has been harvested, you need to urgently plant green manure.

But not every green manure is suitable for autumn sowing. They all have their own characteristics - there are spring crops, and there are winter crops.

Spring crops: oats, oilseed radish, rapeseed, white mustard, phacelia, which do not overwinter, their roots and aerial parts die off, but they do not completely rot over the winter. In the spring, you need to use a flat cutter to trim the roots at a depth of 5–7 cm from the soil surface and lightly mix with the soil. You can spill the soil with Baikal EM-1 solution to speed up the decomposition of green mass.
Winter green manures: rye, vetch, rapeseed - they are sown in late autumn before frost, so that the seeds germinate in the spring, and in early autumn, at the end of summer, then a small regrown tops are lost before winter.

Green manure before winter

Many spring green manures can be sown before winter. Thus, phacelia is usually sown in the spring, but it is also possible to sow it in October-November, after late-ripening crops - carrots, beets, late potatoes, when the site is not threatened by a large invasion of germinating weeds. The sowing time is calculated so that the seeds do not have time to germinate, and the number of phacelia seeds is increased by 1.5-2 times, since some of them may not germinate - at a rate of 10 g/m2, we take 20 g.

Phacelia tansyfolia is suitable as a predecessor of any vegetables and berries

The same applies to sowing mustard before winter, before frosts; it will also sprout in the spring and begin working on the thawing soil, but you need to sow much thicker than in the spring.

The advantages of winter green manure are that the plants will sprout earlier in the spring, and will have time to grow quite a bit before planting the vegetables. Using phacelia or mustard seedlings, we make holes, for example, for tomatoes. Tomatoes grow like this until the beginning of June, while there is a threat of frost - herbs protect the seedlings from the cold. Then the above-ground part of the phacelia or mustard is mowed (it is easily removed), the roots remain in the ground, the greens are not buried, but remain as mulch for vegetables.

Sowing dates for green manure in autumn

The choice of green manure for sowing in the second half of summer depends on how much time remains before cold weather and frosts and how thermophilic the green manure is.

In autumn or late summer, it makes sense to sow only those spring green manures that have time to grow at least 15-20 cm and cover the ground with a continuous carpet, protecting it from erosion by rain, preventing the loss of valuable substances and soil erosion.

In general, spring green manure can be sown until the end of August, in the southern regions - until the beginning of September.

You need to understand that greening of farm fields and a small summer cottage pursue completely different goals. Large fields are sown with almost any crops, including biennial ones, and only when they are grown in a full cycle, do they provide maximum enrichment of the land with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other minerals. Moreover, most green manures have a powerfully developed root system, for example, in lupine it is about 1.5 m deep, others grow more than a meter in height. Such green manures are valuable not as green fertilizer (the stems and leaves are too coarse to be incorporated into the soil), but as an improvement in soil structure (loosening and enrichment with nitrogen), as a fodder plant or a valuable honey plant. They are cleaned using powerful equipment.

In ordinary garden plots, the main purpose of growing green manure is to obtain green fertilizer, populate vacant beds to protect against weeds, loosen the top layer of soil, and protect the soil from diseases and pests. At the same time, it is very important to choose a green manure that grows quickly and is easily removed with garden tools.

Therefore, sowing any green manure does not imply flowering; you can sow any herbs, but as soon as the crops grow to 15-20 cm, trim everything and embed it in the soil. As a rule, in terms of choice, the cost of seed and its availability play a big role.

White mustard

White mustard is the fastest ripening green manure

It copes well with these functions - it is sown in late summer, early autumn, due to its rapid growth and tolerance to cold, it has time to grow greenery and prevent the loss of nitrogen and other nutrients from the soil. The plant dies with frost, but there is no need to plow it into the ground. White mustard grows poorly in acidic and waterlogged soils.

Oilseed radish

Another early-ripening cruciferous green manure, excellent for sowing areas that are free by August, for example, early potatoes. Grows on any type of soil, especially good for heavy ones - it loosens and structures. Radish has a low seed consumption, it sprouts quickly (in 4-7 days) and grows green mass, it is quite cold-resistant - it manages to grow before frost if it is sown later. A basal rosette of 4-5 leaves already 2-3 weeks after emergence, and flowering after 30-40 days. Oilseed radish must be mowed before flowering begins.

Although the greatest yield is formed during the formation of pods, radishes are much larger than mustard and have coarser stems, so on farms they are allowed to grow longer and are harvested using machinery. An ordinary gardener has a simple tool - so after a month or a month and a half you need to mow it.

As green manure, oilseed radish is sown in rows, 15 cm between seeds. Seed consumption is approximately 2-3 g per 1 sq. m. m. Seeds are planted to a depth of 2-4 cm.

Winter rye

Winter rye, sown in early autumn or late summer, is excellent as a green fertilizer; it will have time to germinate and form lush bushes before frost. It tolerates winter well and already in early spring continues to grow leaf mass and roots. Two weeks before planting vegetables or berries, the overgrown green mass should be trimmed with a flat cutter and the rye should be dug into the soil.

Winter rye as a green manure has one more advantage - it is undemanding to the soil and grows well on any type of soil, including very poor ones. Disadvantage: it does not fix nitrogen in the soil, but produces a lot of organic matter.

Winter rye should not be sown too thickly, since in the spring it sprouts very quickly and shoots that sprout too often are more difficult to remove. Can be sown in rows, about 15 cm apart, planting to a depth of 4 cm.

Rape

Rapeseed is demanding on soil, but in order to improve the structure, it is advisable to use it on heavy soils - soddy-podzolic, light and medium loamy and chernozems, although it also grows on sandy loam soils. Strictly not suitable for growing in wet areas.

Rapeseed green manure is sown in the second half of August, in the southern regions later - after the 20th - the fact is that rapeseed is a more delicate crop - if sown ahead of schedule, the plants overgrow, begin to be affected by diseases, and do not winter well. The optimal size of the bush with which rapeseed goes into winter painlessly is a height of about 20-25 cm and a rosette of 6-8 leaves - this takes about 2 months.

Rapeseed requires more care - this crop does not tolerate sudden changes in weather, when after a sudden thaw (melting snow) frost sets in again - an uneven supply of water causes root rot. The same problem occurs with excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers. Therefore, if the winter has little snow, you will have to throw snow on the beds with winter rapeseed.

Rapeseed is sown to a depth of 2–3 cm. Shoots appear in 4–5 days.

In the spring, with a favorable wintering, rapeseed continues to grow, turns green and blooms by mid-May. They start mowing it not when the green pods appear, but earlier, two weeks before planting the main crop.

After rapeseed, you can plant seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants. The disadvantage of this green manure is not only its sensitivity to root rot, but also a lot of diseases and pests that affect cruciferous crops.

Buckwheat

It is better to sow buckwheat as a green manure in the spring, since its development requires 1-3 months, but it can also be sown at the end of summer, in the fall, six weeks before the first frost. It can be sown after potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers. Shoots appear on 9-10 days. Mow at the flowering stage - the first flowers are about a month after germination. Flowering buckwheat retains tender foliage and stems and rots well. It grows on any type of soil, including poor soil, produces good organic mass, does not retain nitrogen in the soil, but converts phosphorus into a form that is easily accessible to vegetables. Disadvantage - it is difficult to get seeds, store-bought buckwheat will not work (it is steamed or fried), you need green seeds.

Vetch

Vetch or mouse pea - a legume crop is used both for organic matter and for saturating the soil with nitrogen, as well as suppressing weeds in difficult areas. Vetch is more capricious - it grows only in slightly acidic areas and does not tolerate dryness.

Vetch (peas) - time to mow

Vetch is an early ripening plant, it grows leaf mass well and protects vegetables from snails and slugs. It can be planted under any vegetables, including cabbage, when it is unacceptable to sow cruciferous green manure, but it cannot be planted in front of legumes (peas, beans).

Vetch is often included in green manure mixtures in combination with rye, rapeseed, ryegrass and other herbs. The depth of seeding is 1-3 cm. You can mow and plant in the soil 60-65 days after sowing.