How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: installation FAQs. Rules for laying linoleum on a wooden floor and preparing the base How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor

Linoleum is one of the widely used floor coverings, which is actively used in residential and public spaces. If there is a concrete base, laying this coating by professionals can be done quite quickly. But today there are still many houses where boards are used as flooring and the technology for laying linoleum is slightly different. In this article we will tell you whether it is possible to lay linoleum on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly if you decide to do all the work yourself.

Wood floor inspection

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, it is necessary to properly prepare the base, since the quality of installation and the service life of the coating directly depend on this. The work begins with an initial inspection and analysis of the condition of the boards. To do this you need:

Check that each board is securely fastened at all points. Check for any deflections or play in the web;
Inspect for damage in the form of rotten areas or partial darkening of the board as a result of exposure to moisture;
Make sure there are no fungal growths or mold, as well as the absence of rusty fastening elements;
Check if there is a squeak when walking on the floor. If creaking occurs, then the cracks between the boards can be sprinkled with ordinary talcum powder or graphite powder.

Important. If a rotten area or fungal formation is discovered, then before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, the damaged boards must be replaced with new ones, and make sure that there is no damage to the load-bearing floor joists, if any. It is not recommended to try to eliminate the fungus by mechanical cleaning and coating with antiseptics. The pores of the fungus penetrate deeply into the wood tissue and no treatment guarantees their complete removal.

Preparing the floor surface

First of all, it is necessary to remove the remnants of old paint and all other debris from the surface of the boards. If the paint holds firmly, then you can leave it, removing only the peeling areas. Pick up the paint layer with a chisel or spatula; if the paint comes off easily, it is better to clean the surface of the boards completely. In difficult places, you can use a hair dryer or paint remover. Then level the surface as much as possible and make sure that the fastening elements of the boards do not stick out above the floor plane.

Important. Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, the boards must be covered with plywood or fiberboard to create a level base. It is not recommended to lay linoleum directly on the boards, since they have a slight deflection when walking or installing furniture, which will lead to stretching and rapid wear of the linoleum.

Plywood or fiberboard is laid on the boards, with a sheet thickness of 8-12 mm. The thickness of the plywood sheet is selected based on the degree of deflection of the boards. If the logs are located at a large distance and the boards sag, then it is better to use thicker sheets to compensate for the bends.

FYI. Laying plywood on a wooden floor under linoleum is done joint to joint. To secure the plywood, wood screws with a countersunk head are used, which, when screwed in, should not protrude beyond the sheet.

When laying sheets of plywood, simultaneously level the hearth using a level. If the screws are tightened too tightly, the plywood sheets may become deformed. If the sheets are thin and when screwing in the self-tapping screws it is not possible to maintain a flat surface, it is necessary to use a drill to make recesses in advance for the screw head to enter into the slab.
Then the plywood laid under linoleum on a wooden floor is sanded at the joints with sandpaper. The joints are sealed with wood putty and, after drying, sanded again to achieve a smooth base.

If the flooring boards are relatively fresh and strong, then instead of laying plywood, you can scrape the surface to level out small differences, but in this case it is advisable to use linoleum with a dense base.

At this point, the surface preparation is completed and the final step before laying the linoleum will be the complete removal of dust using a vacuum cleaner and a slightly damp rag.

Preparation of linoleum

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, it must be laid out on a prepared surface and left for several days. During this time, the material will acquire room temperature and straighten out for convenient work with it in the future. In places where linoleum does not adhere well to the floor, you can lay heavy objects with a flat base, such as books or boards.

Important. Make sure that during the purchase and transportation of linoleum, strong bends of the canvas are not allowed. If there are kinks on the purchased material, then it is better to return such material back to the store and ask for a replacement.

If it is not possible to return the product, then before laying linoleum on a wooden floor with bends, it is recommended to straighten the broken area as much as possible and press it with a heavy object. PVC-based linoleum can be heated with a hairdryer to remove cracks. However, the coating on a natural basis will most likely not be able to be leveled and the bend will have to be cut out to create a joint.

After the material has straightened and reached room temperature, you can begin cutting the fabric, having first removed the baseboards. To do this, you need a ruler, at least two meters long, and a construction knife with a retractable blade. When cutting PVC linoleum, leave an allowance at the edges for shrinkage, which at high temperatures can be up to 2% of the area.

Installation of linoleum

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor with your own hands begins with determining the direction of the pattern. For example, it is better to lay plain coatings or products imitating marble or granite in the direction of the incident light from the room window. This will help visually hide the joints, if any. If the color of the coating has a relief or multi-colored texture, then there is no difference in the direction of installation.

FYI. In the absence of a plywood backing, linoleum is laid parallel to the direction of the boards so that the joint is in the middle of the board. If there is a plywood base, the direction of laying colored or textured material does not matter.

Monitor the indoor microclimate and avoid drafts. During straightening and laying of linoleum, the room temperature should not be lower than +16 and not higher than +35 degrees Celsius.

Choosing a method of fastening linoleum

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor with your own hands, you need to choose an option for attaching it to the surface. Today there are three options, such as:

Laying without gluing. The method is the simplest and fastest, but it can only be used in a room of up to 10 square meters and in the absence of connecting seams.
Laying on tape. In this case, the canvas is fastened with special double-sided tape along the perimeter of the linoleum sheet and at the joints.
Laying with glue. Glue mounting is the most effective installation option and contributes to the longest service life of the coating. However, the process is quite labor-intensive and is required for rooms with an area of more than 20 square meters.

Important. With the second or third installation option, there may be a need to join several sheets. In order to make a perfectly fitted joint, you need to overlap both sheets by about 8-10 cm. Then we fix both sheets to the surface with glue or tape, not reaching 2-3 cm from the overlap. We lay the ruler exactly in the center of the joint and make a deep cut in two materials at once as evenly as possible, obtaining an ideal joint. After this, coat the wooden floor under the linoleum at the joint with glue or lay down tape, and then glue the material.

Let's start installation

When laying linoleum on a wooden floor without glue, it is necessary to finally level out all the unevenness of the coating from the center to the edges of the room. With sufficient exposure, the coating should lie as flat as possible. Then we cut off the excess material with a construction knife along the wall, making a gap for expansion of approximately 0.5 - 1 cm between the wall and the edge of the canvas. After this, skirting boards are installed, which simultaneously fix the position of the covering.

When laying using mounting tape, it is first glued around the perimeter of the room, without removing the protective layer from the outer adhesive side. Further, all actions occur in the same way as in the first option. After leveling the coating, its edges are folded back, the protective tape is removed from the tape and the edge of the canvas is glued, after which the baseboard is installed.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor is carried out in the same way as on a regular concrete floor. Linoleum is glued in parts, having previously prepared the adhesive composition. The entire coating is conventionally divided into two parts, then one part is folded back and the adhesive is applied to the floor surface using a spatula or roller. The glue is left for 20-30 minutes, then the bent material is glued to the surface. After this, the procedure is repeated with the second half.

Wood flooring can last a long time, and in itself it has good thermal conductivity and looks great.

But there are situations when the old wooden floor is completely worn out or cracked, and there is no financial opportunity to update it.

An example of wood flooring that would be too expensive to replace is shown below.

In such cases, the most inexpensive and attractive coating comes to the rescue - linoleum.

It won’t be difficult to either buy it or lay it yourself; most of the work is just preparing the wooden floor for subsequent flooring.

Which linoleum is suitable for a wooden floor?

Today there are a wide variety of types of linoleum, they mainly differ in the material from which they are made. In accordance with this, the following types are distinguished:

household type (21-23) is the thinnest and is intended only for home use with low intensity of walking on it;
semi-commercial (31-34) is more resistant to wear, it is thicker and harder;
commercial (41-43) type - the thickest and most durable linoleum, designed for constant walking on it, resistant to various types of mechanical and chemical influences.

Of course, the more wear-resistant the linoleum, the more it will cost you, but for laying on an old wooden floor, a regular household look, as shown in the photo below, is quite suitable.

Linoleum can also be made from different types of polyvinyl chloride or from natural materials, but this type is much more expensive than others.

When choosing the quality of linoleum, you must also pay attention to its main characteristics, since it can be flammable, and especially in combination with a wooden floor cannot be tolerated.

Also, the floor must be protected from moisture, so you need to make sure that the linoleum is moisture resistant.

And finally, if linoleum is susceptible to fungus and various microorganisms, then it can soon lead to damage to the wood floor and its rotting.

All these parameters must be taken into account in order for the coating to serve you as long as possible.

Do I need underlay for wood flooring?

Linoleum underlay can be used to increase thermal conductivity and sound insulation. Since a wooden floor itself conducts heat well, additional insulation is not required.

But the underlay may be required in cases where the floor consists of old floorboards that squeak when walking, or small unevenness or splits that must be leveled.

If underlayment is necessary, then it is worth considering options that will help both save money and remove unnecessary defects in the subfloor.

The easiest way would be to purchase linoleum with a jute or other backing already glued. You can see such linoleum in the photo below.

There are also linoleums with a fabric base on the inside and a foam base, which are four-layer. These types perfectly insulate sounds and compensate for uneven floors; they do not require an additional substrate.

You can simply buy a backing made of cork, jute, linen, foam and others, which differ in the degree of naturalness of the materials used for production and, accordingly, in price.

If possible, you should choose both linoleum and a substrate made from natural materials, which will be safe for health and last much longer.

Preparing a Wooden Subfloor

When the linoleum has been selected, you can proceed to the most difficult stage of linoleum flooring - preparing the wooden floor for further work.

Here you immediately need to look at the condition of the base of the floor and, in accordance with this, choose a method of work.

If the floor does not have significant problems or breaks, and only small gaps and cracks are visible, then you need to do the following:

completely remove paint, varnish and all contaminants from the surface;
make the floor level by removing high spots with a plane or sanding machine, and then sand the entire surface;
if some parts or planks fall out or become loose, then they need to be nailed tightly;
cracks and cracks, if they are small, need to be filled with a special compound;
Large cracks can easily be sealed using wooden strips that match the size of the crack or gap.

After all the work, it is better to treat the wood with antifungal and antiseptic mixtures to prevent rotting and mold formation.

You can also additionally treat the floor with a fire-resistant mixture, if necessary.

If your floor is very uneven or has too many defects, then you can proceed in two ways.

When the floor is simply uneven around the entire perimeter, but is strong and can withstand the load well, then you can fill not only the cracks, but the entire floor. This will make it uniform and the linoleum will lie flat.

But if the boards creak a lot, are broken, or sag in some places, then it is better to cover the entire area with gypsum fiber boards.

If you take gypsum fiber boards 12 mm thick, then it is better to lay them in two layers, perpendicular to each other.

You can also use sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. Making such a dry screed is not difficult; the process is shown in the photo below.

When screeding, several points are very important that must be taken into account.

The plywood sheets should be laid according to the shape of the brickwork; you need to ensure that the seams between the sheets do not coincide with the seams on the base of the floor, if any.

Plywood sheets should only be fastened with special screws, as they can break very easily.

There are also special fastenings for GVL profiles. The fastening step of any material should be no more than 30 cm.

After completing the work, be sure to walk over the entire floor area and make sure that the boards do not sag anywhere.

If this is discovered, then it is better to immediately put additional pieces of fiberboard under such a place.

Strengthening the boards can also be done at the preliminary stage before screeding, replacing them with new ones or strengthening them from below with wooden blocks, pouring sand under the wobbly parts.

After the floor is securely strengthened, you should scrape the surface, prime it and you can begin laying linoleum.

Different ways to lay linoleum

First of all, it must be said that purchased linoleum should only be transported in a rolled roll, otherwise it may become deformed and it will be impossible to straighten it.

It must rest for several days at room temperature and undergo acclimatization; for this you need to unroll the rolls and lay them on a flat surface.

During this time, the linoleum will straighten and be completely ready for use.

Now you need to cut the linoleum into the required parts, using a sharp knife.

In this case, you need to leave a reserve for the shrinkage that the material will give; it is about 2% for ordinary PVC linoleum.

You need to cut into small pieces and ensure that the line is straight and the pattern is preserved.

You can cut linoleum directly along the wall, and also cut holes along the contour for pipes, protrusions and other deviations from the wall. Cutting is carried out at the same angle as shown in the photo.

When trimming linoleum in the corners, you need to be extremely careful and it is better to leave a small margin of 1-2 cm. When the trimming is completed, you can attach the linoleum. There are the following ways to do this:

No glue or fixation required. This method is suitable for small rooms up to 12 square meters. m, and also if linoleum is laid on the floor in one piece without seams.
Fixing with double-sided tape ensures long-term preservation of the material and seals the seams well. To do this, before laying the linoleum, stick a tape of tape over the seams, or you can make a grid of tape around the entire perimeter of the room in steps of about 50 cm;
Fastening with glue. If the room is large and you need to fix the flooring for a long time, it is better to use glue. It can be applied both around the entire perimeter and in places where there will be seams. You can see this process below.

After laying with glue, it is necessary to roll the linoleum with a roller in all directions so that it lies flat; if the glue dries, this will be impossible to do.

The adhesive must be suitable in composition for the wooden subfloor and linoleum material.

For maximum masking of seams, you can also use cold welding using a special adhesive.

When you already know how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, all that remains is to figure out some nuances that will help make the coating smoother and more beautiful.

Regarding how light enters the room, it is better to lay monochrome or marble colors of linoleum perpendicular to the window, and geometric and other patterns should be laid along the boards of the wooden base. This will help make the seams as invisible as possible. You can see an example in the image below.

The joints of linoleum sheets should be in the middle of the board to avoid subsidence and moisture getting into the floor.

When working, it is important to maintain the temperature, which should not be lower than 16 degrees.

Video: laying linoleum on a wooden base

In this video you can watch an example of laying linoleum and make sure that such work is suitable even for a beginner who has never tried laying linoleum.

You will receive valuable advice on the correct preparation of flooring, both base and linoleum flooring.

13.08.2014

If a home master is looking for an answer to the question of how to lay linoleum, this indicates only one thing - the base coating has apparently lost its attractive appearance and functionality. In simple words, it simply fell into disrepair. Gaps have appeared between the boards, they constantly creak under the feet of household members, and no amount of painting can fix their appearance. By the way, the construction of floors varies. It is also quite possible that they in the apartment are made not from boards, but from gypsum fiber boards, which over time can rot and simply collapse, forming very significant surface defects.

Be that as it may, in any case, one thing is clear: the time has come for repairs. And it is not always possible to completely replace the coating. Making new wooden floors (in a private house or apartment, not so important) is not a cheap pleasure. This means that a logical conclusion suggests itself: if they cannot be replaced, then they need to be disguised somehow, covered with something. And the best choice for these purposes is linoleum, which, although considered a budget option, nevertheless has a fairly attractive appearance. Moreover, today on the market you can see a huge variety of this material, which differs in appearance, texture, and composition. So choosing the right option for your particular case will not be difficult. True, you will have to carry out some preparatory work before installation. However, a home handyman with skillful hands can do any job. We, in turn, will try to help him and give some recommendations that will make the process go smoothly. So, how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor? By and large, it’s elementary!

Is it possible?

There is an opinion that wooden floors are far from the most suitable base for linoleum. Of course, a high-quality screed would be better suited for these purposes, we won’t argue. But making it is still a lot of work! As a rule, wooden floors are usually installed on joists, that is, between them and the subfloor there is a fairly large distance, at least ten centimeters, that when installing the screed, no composition will fill it. Therefore, you first need to lay an additional layer of, say, expanded clay concrete, and only then pour the base.

Imagine how much work there is to do if you need to replace wooden floors in a private home! However, it is also quite difficult to carry out such a procedure in an apartment, especially if it is located on the upper floors. The amount of source material will have to be counted not in kilograms, but in tons, and it’s even scary to mention the financial component. In general, the procedure is unattractive, no matter how you look at it. And here, from all sides, advice is coming in such as that the wooden floor under the linoleum will rot, all the defects will appear on the new coating over time, it will not last long, etc., etc.

What should a person who is not entirely knowledgeable in such matters, but nevertheless wants to have a decent floor in his apartment, do? Firstly, do not listen to all sorts of nonsense that amateurs, as a rule, say. Secondly, approach the issue wisely and carefully study all the nuances of the process. And it will immediately become clear: if you prepare the foundation correctly, then no problems will arise. Linoleum will lie on a wooden floor for years and delight the owner with its magnificent appearance. The main thing is to do everything in accordance with the technological requirements of the process, plus buy the right material. Therefore, let's start with the question of choice.

Types of linoleum

Any buyer first of all pays attention to the appearance of the product. The same applies to linoleum. And no advice in this regard will really help, since you need to focus primarily on your own preferences. The flooring in question today is available in every imaginable and inconceivable variety of options and can imitate ceramic tiles, stone, laminate, floorboards, and parquet. But you should definitely pay attention to other characteristics, since they will play a key role in achieving the desired effect.

So, linoleum can be class 21-23, it is also called household. This is the thinnest type of flooring, quite cheap, but not very durable and does not have good performance characteristics. Class 31-34 is called semi-commercial, it is denser, withstands loads better, and is more wear-resistant. Commercial is classified as class 41-43 and the most durable type. But also the most expensive. For a wooden floor, it is best to choose the middle option, which is quite acceptable in both cost and strength.

Next, you should pay attention to such characteristics as moisture resistance and fire safety, because they are the main ones, taking into account the fact that the flooring will have to be laid on wood. Today, linoleum is made from various materials - PVC, alkyd resins, and rubber. It is also available on a fabric, felt or foamed polyvinyl chloride base or without it at all. The more sophisticated the material, the more expensive it is, naturally. What should you choose? The best choice for a wooden floor is linoleum, made from PVC and based on a foam base. It has all the characteristics necessary for the given purposes and is considered, by and large, an ideal option for laying on wood.

Once the required material has been purchased, you can begin preparing the foundation.

Ventilation

As a rule, wooden floors are usually installed on joists. This means that there is free space underneath them where air can circulate freely. Ventilation of the floor occurs due to the presence of natural holes, i.e., small cracks, between the boards. When the base is covered with linoleum, air will stop flowing, which will certainly lead to the appearance of moisture and the formation of fungus and mold. This is a very important point that you need to pay attention to. To prevent this from happening, you first need to do ventilation. Simply put, drill several holes in the corners and cover them with gratings. By doing this, you will not only save yourself from many problems in the future, but you will also never regret that you decided to puzzle yourself with the question of how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

Preparing the base

After installing ventilation, you need to carefully inspect the old floor. Find all the places where the boards creak or vibrate under your feet and nail them to the joists using long nails. Completely rotten or damaged boards should definitely be replaced. If there are large irregularities, you need to eliminate them by cutting them off with a plane. Check for any nails protruding above the surface. If there are any, they should be hammered in and the recesses should be covered with putty. As for the old paint, of course, there is no need to remove all of it, but if there are places where it is peeling, then they must be cleaned. It is advisable to cover all cracks with a special putty for wood. If they are very large, then you can seal them with thin wooden planks. It is also advisable to treat the entire wooden surface with a mixture containing antiseptic additives. And be sure to let it dry thoroughly. After which you can begin laying linoleum. But first we need to consider one more nuance.

Do you need a backing?

Another question that is sure to cause debate. Do I need an underlay for a wooden floor under linoleum? It is quite difficult to answer this question unambiguously. On the one hand, the substrate promotes insulation and sound insulation, levels the surface, and protects the linoleum from defects existing on the base boards. On the other hand, if you purchased an expensive multi-layer flooring that already has its own underlay, why spend the extra money? So the answer to this question must be sought only based on the type of linoleum. If you bought a cheap thin one, buy an additional jute or foam backing; if you bought an expensive one, don’t be bothered by this problem anymore.

It’s another matter when the base base is particularly uneven, which cannot be dealt with in any way. Then it is used as a substrate on a wooden floor. This will allow you to level the base.

How to lay plywood

How to level under linoleum using plywood? This procedure is absolutely simple. First of all, it is worth keeping in mind that you only need to purchase a moisture-resistant variety of this material. As for the thickness of the sheets, 8-12 mm will be enough. It is also advisable to treat it with an antiseptic beforehand. As for the installation process itself, there are two options. You can use glue and nails, or you can attach sheets of plywood using self-tapping screws. In the latter case, the caps must be covered with plastic patches, or at least simply covered with putty.

When the base base is completely prepared, you can begin laying the new coating.

Linoleum laying technology

There are three options. The simplest and fastest is the usual installation on the floor with fixation around the perimeter with skirting boards. Usually it is used only in rooms with a small area. Why? Because if a significant space is covered in this way, then over time so-called waves may form on the floor, which is unlikely to contribute to the attractiveness of the coating.

The second method involves using double-sided tape. Usually it is either glued along the perimeter and diagonally, or a “lathing” is made from it on the floor.

The third option is laying with glue. An ideal method for repairing large areas, however, it is quite labor-intensive.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor

The floor covering, regardless of the chosen method, must be laid out so that there is a margin of at least 5-10 centimeters on all sides. It is necessary to make cuts in the corners. If the usual installation method is chosen, then after careful smoothing, the excess near the walls is cut off. If installation is done using double-sided tape, then the first step is to stick it on, but the protective tape is not removed. After this, first one part of the covering is turned away, the protection is removed, the linoleum is pressed, and the second half of the covering is done in the same way. If laying with glue, first bend one half, apply glue to the base surface with a roller, then, after twenty minutes, straighten the folded part and carefully smooth it with your hands. Do the same with the other side. Using any method, cut off the excess flooring with a knife after installation, then attach the plinth to the wall, parallel to the edges of the linoleum.

Docking

Sometimes it is not always possible to purchase coverage of the required width or length. This happens in cases where the area of the room is quite impressive. And then you have to resort to the docking method. How is this done? First, of course, you need to try to choose the most inconspicuous place for joining - where the furniture will be, under the windows, etc. Then you need to lay out the main strip, and overlap an additional piece over it. Bend both sides, apply glue to the bottom, press it to the floor. Then apply the same glue to the underside of the upper part and also press it, but to the floor covering underneath. Next, you need to take a sharp knife and cut both parts in the middle of the overlap. Excess material should be removed and the edges of the floor covering should be coated with a special compound. For this, commercially available linoleum joint adhesive is usually used. Iron everything thoroughly again, or even better, cover it with adhesive tape, which will need to be removed after drying.

Professionals strongly recommend not only keeping the linoleum roll for several days in the room where it will be installed, but also unrolling it first so that the floor covering can not only “acclimatize”, but also expand as much as possible.

When carrying out work, it is necessary that the room has a comfortable temperature - about 18 degrees.

If you were forced to join pieces of linoleum, under no circumstances walk on it until the glue has completely dried. As a rule, this takes at least two days.

Conclusion

What conclusion can be drawn in the end? The construction of floors, by and large, is not decisive when laying linoleum. The main thing is to carefully and competently prepare the base base and make the right choice when purchasing flooring. And then, regardless of what surface we lay linoleum on - a wooden floor or a cement screed, this wonderful material will serve you for a long time and delight you with its magnificent appearance.

Linoleum is a universal floor covering. It is resistant to mechanical stress, has high wear resistance, has an average pricing policy and an original design. Today you can choose a material that will fit into the most extravagant interior. In addition, it is not at all necessary to attract highly qualified specialists to lay linoleum. The main thing is to properly prepare the subfloor and follow the installation technology.

Before you start laying, you need to choose the linoleum itself. It is better to opt for those samples that have good protective qualities. This is due to the fact that wood itself allows moisture, sound and cold to pass through quite well.

Experts do not recommend purchasing natural linoleum. In this case, it makes sense to save money and opt for a synthetic option, which is more resistant to moisture. You also need to pay attention to the thickness of the product. It must exceed 3 mm. Otherwise, creases will form on the linoleum during operation.

Linoleum can only be laid on an extremely flat surface free of defects. If we are talking about installation on a wooden floor, then you will have to devote a lot of time to preparing the rough foundation.

The structure of linoleum is such that during operation it repeats all the flaws of the subfloor. Therefore, over time, all the cracks formed in the boards, seams and minor defects will become visible. Before answering the question of how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, let's figure out how to prepare a rough base.

Preparatory stage

There is no need to immediately get to work trying to repair cracks and chips. You need to carefully examine the floorboards and think about where to start. You need to walk around the room several times, squat and jump. If at the same time the floor does not begin to creak and “walk” under your feet, then the preparatory stage will not be labor-intensive.

Floorboards in the house should have a natural color. If there are darker or lighter areas, you need to check the condition of the wood. To do this, you will need any sharp object (awl, knife, screwdriver) with which you need to lightly pierce the board. A rotten board will be easily pierced even by a not too sharp object. Laminate cannot be laid on top of such boards. If there is paint on the old floorboards, you need to get rid of it.

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It is also worth examining the floorboards for the presence of fungus and mold. If any are found, then the damaged boards need to be replaced. It is also necessary to pay attention to the condition of the nails that secure the floorboards to the joists. If they are rusty, then it is better to replace them.

Wood, unfortunately, is not resistant to insects. If the boards have shallow grooves, it means they have suffered from woodworms. Such boards need to be replaced with new ones. In this case, the entire floor will have to be treated with a special bioprotective preparation.

It is also necessary to evaluate the condition of the logs, which are made from wooden blocks. All elements that are rotten or damaged by mold, mildew or insects must be replaced. To examine the condition of the joists, you will have to lift several floorboards. You can hit the joists with a hammer. In this case, the sound should be ringing, not dull.

If the floor creaks and the joists are in good condition, it means that they have sagged under the influence of the load or are not level. Therefore, you will have to place pre-prepared bars or bricks under the logs. Creaking can also occur because the floorboards rub against each other. This problem can be solved with the help of graphite defect or talc, which is poured into the cracks between the floorboards.

Don't forget to go over the floor with a builder's level, which will indicate whether the subfloor is level. Linoleum is laid if the height difference does not exceed 2 mm.

After all damaged structural elements have been replaced with new ones, the surface must be leveled. Use a regular plane for this. To speed up installation work, you will have to equip yourself with a sanding machine, which you can rent.

Then, all cracks and gaps need to be puttied. In this case, you need to use a special wood putty. It is advisable to use the same composition to treat all minor defects, which include the places where the self-tapping screws are used to attach the floorboards to the joists.

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If the height difference exceeds 2 mm, you will have to level the rough base. This can be done in several ways. Self-leveling floors are very popular today. Construction stores sell powder that, after adding water, turns into a flowing mixture. The subfloor is poured with it. Under the influence of its own weight, the mixture is leveled.

Ultimately we get a flat surface. The thickness of such a screed should not exceed several centimeters. If the height differences are 5-7 cm, then several layers of mortar will have to be poured.

But this leveling method is used, as a rule, for concrete foundations. Since the solution is quite fluid and the wood absorbs liquid well, you will have to waterproof the base. This will lead to higher installation costs.

In a wooden house, it is advisable to use the so-called dry screed. Logs are placed on top of the rough base, on which sheet material (plywood, fiberboard, chipboard) is laid. The joists can be attached to the floor using adhesives. The sheet material is attached to the joists using self-tapping screws.

After laying the sheet material, it is necessary to putty the seams and treat the entire surface with drying oil. If everything is done correctly, the subfloor should be perfectly level.

Laying linoleum

Before you begin laying linoleum, it must be left unfolded for 20-24 hours. During this time, the material will level out. The installation itself begins with markings. If the material has a repeating pattern, then you need to decide how it will be positioned.

You can fix the material to the floor using adhesives. It is advisable to choose this method if we are talking about small rooms. The decorative flooring is fixed, in this case, with skirting boards and a strip. It should be noted that moving heavy furniture in such a room will need to be extremely careful. Otherwise there is a risk of damage to the floor covering.