Homemade watering devices. Do-it-yourself drip irrigation for your dacha at no cost. DIY drip irrigation system. Video - How drip irrigation from drippers works

An automatic watering system can be very simple, unpretentious and inexpensive, and every beginning gardener can do it with his own hands.

In this article we will tell you how to make an irrigation system at your dacha without the help of a specialist. But before that, here are some tips on proper watering of plants.

How to properly water plants in the garden?

What types of irrigation systems are there?

You are probably familiar with basic irrigation systems: a watering can and a hose. They are, of course, easy to use and cost-free, but that’s only at first glance!

Carrying a watering can (and it is not at all light) around the garden, you spend a lot of energy and effort. And if you calculate how much water is spent on irrigation using these methods, it comes out to a round sum of money.

Conclusion: a watering can and a hose are very expensive, considering that you can save on watering.

How? Let's talk about the automatic watering system again. We will not consider those that require significant costs. Let's focus on those that are accessible to a novice gardener. These are, in particular:

  1. Drip irrigation using pipes.
  2. Drip irrigation using plastic bottles.

Drip irrigation– a garden watering system in which water is supplied in small but regular portions to the “right” places.

Most often, drip irrigation involves getting water directly under the plant. Don’t think that the drops won’t moisten the soil: all the moisture goes directly to the root system.

To make drip irrigation using pipes, you will need little: a tank of water, one thick and several thin pipes, nozzles (for example, the plastic part of medical droppers).

The second option for drip irrigation requires almost nothing: just a few plastic bottles.

Which watering to choose?

Why do some summer residents prefer “pipe” irrigation, while others prefer “bottle” irrigation?

It all depends on the type of garden you have, the location of the beds, the number of crops and what you grow.

Bottle watering is suitable only for those plants for which root watering is recommended. In addition, it is convenient to use such an irrigation system only in a small garden.

If you have a large garden, a lot of crops and they only require watering of the root system, then the pipe option is for you!

Before you begin your drip irrigation installation, make sure your beds are parallel and your plants are close to each other. In addition, there should be a place in the garden for a large pipe - a main line.

Do-it-yourself watering system at the dacha

Have you decided to make your own drip irrigation system? Don't be afraid, there is nothing complicated about it. In this article, we consider only those methods of watering a garden that everyone can do on their own.

Drip irrigation system using pipes

You will need:

  • a reservoir for accumulating and storing water (1.5-2 m above the ground);
  • large, dense pipe;
  • several thin pipes (10-15 mm), depending on the number of beds;
  • elements of the plastic part of a medical dropper (nozzle);
  • plugs for thin pipes.

Start small: measure each of the beds, then cut the thin pipes to size. Connect a large pipe - a main line - to the water tank so that it lies perpendicular to the beds. Connect the pipe slightly above the bottom of the barrel/tank.

Experts advise choosing PVC pipes (a type of polymer pipe), they are dense, inexpensive and are not afraid of high temperatures. PVC pipe is suitable as the main pipe of your irrigation system. It is better to buy thin pipes for beds made of polyethylene - they are the most elastic and are also not afraid of frost.

Connect the thin pipes to the main pipe using starter fittings, having previously drilled the appropriate number of holes in it.

Lay the drip pipes parallel to the beds. Make several small holes in each pipe into which the elements of the drip system will be inserted.

The holes should be made directly near the root of the plant, which means how many plants there are, so many holes. Insert plugs on the back of each thin pipe.

Before testing your irrigation system, remove the plugs and “run” water through the pipes so you can more easily find out if your system is faulty. If you notice a flaw, fix it immediately.

Drip irrigation system using plastic bottles

The previous system doesn't seem too complicated and intricate, does it? If so, then this one will be even easier. To make it, you only need a few plastic bottles or containers.

You probably already understood the principle of operation of this system: holes are made in the bottle, drops from which fall under the plant.

However, even in such a simple system there are two options:

Even if you are new to gardening, you can easily make drip irrigation systems with your own hands.

You will need little: a few materials that can be bought at any specialty store, a desire to please your plants with a regular supply of water, and a little patience! We are sure you will succeed!

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What is DIY drip irrigation? Any gardener knows that water is required for proper growth and development of a plant. Undoubtedly, in a greenhouse or in open beds you can use a hose, but this is more expensive and labor-intensive.

Nowadays, not every family can afford daily watering with high water consumption. Therefore, in order to try to maintain the family budget, many summer residents resort to a homemade watering system.

Drip irrigation - what is it?

The great advantage of this system is that only the root system of the plant absorbs moisture, and the soil layer and leaves do not get wet. This makes it possible to prevent sunburn of vegetation. In addition, when moistened, no active weed growth is observed.

Today, many gardening enthusiasts save their budget on water consumption by up to 80%. At the same time, plants absorb the necessary amount of moisture required for active development.

To manufacture such a system at the dacha, you will need to choose the smoothest surface. Place a bottle filled with purified water at a height of 1 m. Then build the structure and start irrigation.

You can also water your lawn yourself. The most important thing is that there is always only purified liquid in the container, otherwise there is a possibility of filter contamination.


To prevent system clogging, it is better to use liquid fertilizers. In the autumn, dismantle all elements of the drip irrigation system. If such recommendations are followed, the system will be used for more than one season.

The process of implementing a drip irrigation system

This technique has been used since ancient times in areas with arid climatic conditions. Today, manufacturers produce expensive and complicated irrigation systems. Therefore, not everyone manages to purchase such a product for their summer cottage.

But many people do it themselves. Such a system will perform a smaller number of functions compared to model groups of similar products. And with the required operation, it will be no worse than watering plantings.

How to make drip irrigation?

It is best to use a flexible hose. Initially, it is necessary to secure a large container with a capacity of over 100 liters. The height to which the container needs to be fixed is at least 1 m. If there are drainpipes, the container will independently fill with water in rainy weather.

To prevent dirty particles in irrigation hoses, they are fixed at a height of at least 5 cm from the very bottom of the container. First you need to do the wiring and understand where the places for the droppers will be.

Secondly, take care of the wiring and installation of taps, the number of which is determined based on the characteristics of the system. You can buy the simplest taps, they will be enough to perform the main functions.


How to perform IVs

To make droppers, you can use this method.

First you need to purchase a sleeve with holes at any agricultural supply store. You can use a heated nail to make holes. Place elbows in the main hose. Their length should be about 20-30 cm.

In this case, it is better to use a plastic hose. To prevent the edges from getting torn, it is better to make holes with a regular drill. Before doing this, heat the main hose in hot water.

At the end, all elements are combined into a single whole. You can do an initial launch to check the operation of the system

Drip irrigation from plastic bottles

To monitor the growth of seedlings in summer cottages, you will need to know how to water in a greenhouse. The technology will be similar; for these purposes, you can use any container, for example, plastic containers.

A 1.5-2 liter plastic bottle can also be useful in general. The lid of the container is pierced in several places. The transverse distance of the opening is no more than 2 mm. Small holes are made with a hot nail.

Then an incision is made at the bottom of the container to prevent moisture evaporation. Afterwards, you need to dig a small hole 15 cm deep and place the bottle in it at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, you need to be careful, as there is a risk of damaging the root system of the plant.


Fill the container with liquid that will moisten the rhizome through the holes made. In addition to the above, drip irrigation makes it easy to saturate plants with liquid minerals.

This elementary system will hydrate the sprouts over a period of 1-3 days. Do-it-yourself bottle watering is suitable for gardeners who do not have the opportunity to water their plantings every day.

Drip irrigation from polypropylene pipes

If we compare pipes made of metal and polypropylene, the latter have more advantages. In addition, the material is lower in cost and is better suited for self-assembly of drip irrigation.

At the beginning of assembly, you need to take care of the following points:

  • You will need a 100 liter container. The temperature of the water in it will increase under the influence of sunlight. This also has a positive effect on plant growth.
  • Ball valve and filter for water purification. If it is missing, the system will malfunction.
  • Bottle for mineral fertilizers
  • Pipeline
  • Bends from polypropylene pipes.

To determine the size of materials, you need to mark the ground. For irrigation purposes, 1 square meter of area will require approximately 30 liters of water in 24 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to calculate the number of branches and the length of the segment between the droppers.

To maintain the normal pressure, the bottle is fixed at a height of 1-2 m. The tap is installed at a height of 10 cm from the bottom. On the opposite side it is attached to the country water supply.

To fix the set level, it is better to place a valve with a float. Installation of pipes for drip irrigation must be strictly followed according to the instructions. For everything to work correctly, the pipes must be secured to the fittings using soldering.

The pipes come into contact with the main line at a depth of 75 cm. The filtration installation is located on the side. At the end of the main pipe, a plug is made. After all this, you can start drips. That's all, the drip irrigation system is ready for use!

Photo of watering with your own hands

In the dacha community, there are a variety of opinions about what the irrigation system at the dacha should be, how much water and at what time should be supplied to the beds, to the root zones of garden trees, greenhouse crops, flowers and ornamental plants. In all of these cases, there are rules and recommendations about watering time, average daily consumption and method of water supply. The first two factors, as a rule, are selected based on agricultural practices, average daily temperatures, the number of sunny days and the severity of climatic realities. Another thing is the design of an irrigation system; it is built to suit one’s own capabilities and characteristics of growing certain crops and plants.

How to choose the method of watering plants

The only thing that the vast majority of summer residents and lovers of organically pure products, vegetables and fruits agree on is that the garden watering system must correspond to the specifics of the plants being grown. For example, it is impossible to use a field and lawn irrigation system for capricious and whimsical eggplants. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the availability of water reserves, the size of irrigation areas and even the geometric shape of the site.

To provide plants with a sufficient amount of water, several basic watering schemes are used:

  • Sprinkler systems, both manual and mechanized or even automatic. In this case, the flow of water, cut into separate streams, is directed along an overhead path so that drops of water fall on the plants like rain;
  • Distribution of water over the beds using a system of pipelines, canals and ditches, a system of collectors and containers. This is the most ancient and proven method. The flow of water, as a rule, does not come into direct contact with the root system of plants, but saturates the soil layers adjacent to the roots with moisture;
  • The most modern of those currently existing is the drip irrigation method. Spot irrigation provides for precise dosing of liquid entering the near-root zone of plants.

Today, drip irrigation systems are used in hot, arid climates where water resources are limited.

Important! The average capital intensity of drip irrigation is approximately 3-4 times higher than other methods, so point water supply is resorted to on thin and rocky soils. In this case, in addition to water, it is possible to supply a precisely dosed amount of nutrients, salts and fertilizers to the root system.

Drip irrigation works ideally in conditions where there is either not enough water or it cannot be used in large quantities, for example, when the air is excessively humid and warm in greenhouse and greenhouse conditions.

How to water in greenhouses

A closed and often isolated greenhouse space imposes its own characteristics on the way water is supplied to the plants. The greenhouse watering system is selected depending on the purpose and method of growing plants:

  • Metered drip water supply is used for plants and crops grown and bearing fruit in greenhouse conditions. In this case, all irrigation equipment is controlled automatically or by a self-watering mechanism. To a large extent, spot watering makes it possible to protect plants, for example, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants from possible damage by infectious diseases, acid rain, pests, including those present in the soil and water;
  • With the flow-sprinkler method of water supply, a significant amount of moisture is released in a relatively short period of time. Typically, large greenhouses are equipped with such irrigation systems in which seedlings are grown and intended for planting in the ground;
  • It is clear that sprinkler irrigation systems are used for growing seedlings of mass crops, for which point water supply is not applicable due to the large areas of the beds and the structural features of the crops. In this case, plant seedlings are deliberately accustomed to periodic moistening with vertical streams of water. This is how plants will be watered after planting in open ground.

In addition, seedlings are always grown in portable soil boxes, disposable pots, bags in very dense plantings, on which it is difficult and expensive to install a drip irrigation system, and this is of no use if after three or four weeks the plant goes to the beds. It’s another matter if vegetable crops go through a full cycle of growth, vegetation and fruiting in a greenhouse. In this case, there is practically no alternative to drip irrigation systems.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse watering

You can assemble the simplest version of an irrigation system for a greenhouse with your own hands from a dozen polypropylene water pipes soldered into several longitudinal water pipes. Each line is equipped with 3-5 centrifugal water sprayers, similar to those used in backpack or balloon sprayers. Irrigation lines are installed under the ceiling of the greenhouse and connected to an underwater main with a low-power pump.

Here, in the greenhouse, a container for several hundred liters of water is installed. The electric timer is taken outside the greenhouse and installed at the point where the pump's power cord is connected to the power supply line.

Important! It is clear that it is necessary to correctly calculate the operating time of the irrigation system and the point at which the electric pump is turned off by the timer before the water container is completely empty.

The use of centrifugal sprayers will produce fog from fine droplets of water, which will settle on the plants and perfectly moisturize the surface without any negative consequences. Such an irrigation system for a greenhouse will ensure the most efficient irrigation with microdroplets of water, regardless of what exactly will be grown - seedlings or fruit-bearing plants.

Of course, if you plan to grow vegetables, for example, tomatoes or early cucumbers, in addition to the irrigation system, you will need to make larger vents to ensure normal air flow and remove excess water. In early spring, irrigation with droplets of warm water will protect the greenhouse from severe frosts, and in July-August from acid rain and pest invasion.

What to choose for your dacha

Oddly enough, but organizing the watering of beds, shrubs, plants and trees at a summer cottage has always been and remains one of the most difficult and time-consuming tasks. It takes a lot of effort to ensure that water is supplied to the plants at the right time of day and in the required quantity. At the same time, for shrubs, mature trees and beds, water must be supplied in completely different modes. Therefore, you have to combine and assemble an individual irrigation system with your own hands:

  • For trees, drip or channel irrigation is used, the system is designed to supply water for 2-4 hours in the evening;
  • For shrubs, seedlings and young trees, the use of channel irrigation systems is recommended;
  • Seedlings, strawberries, lingonberries, cucumbers, eggplants, onions, and carrots are watered using the channel method. For tomatoes and young bushes, it is recommended to use drip irrigation systems;
  • Perennial grasses, potatoes, pumpkins, zucchini, and any plantings with dense plant mass can be filled with water using sprinkler systems, provided that the dissecting nozzles are correctly selected.

Drip irrigation often has to be resorted to involuntarily, due to the high sensitivity of plants to various bacterial and viral forms of diseases. In this case, the irrigation system avoids water getting on the leaves and, accordingly, reduces the risk of disease. No matter how carefully the water is prepared and filtered, excessive moisture of the leaves always causes the appearance of powdery mildew or late blight.

Open plant watering systems

The choice of a specific irrigation system for your own plot in 90% of cases depends on the growing conditions of the plants. To properly organize the water supply and plant nutrition, it is necessary to take into account three main factors:


Farmers, experienced summer residents and experienced gardeners, whose acreage amounts to tens and hundreds of acres, often use towed systems to water their fields. It is possible to provide water to seedlings, vegetable crops, onions, peas, beans on an area of ​​800-1000 m2 only with the help of a special mobile sprinkler installation.

Structurally, such a system is a trailer to a mini-tractor, on which a frame with installed sprinklers is attached. The water flow is supplied using a flexible hose laid along the track. During the movement, irrigation is carried out in a strip of at least 10 m wide. The water pump is driven by the tractor engine.

For your information! The inconvenience and difficulty of using such structures lies in the fact that a person has to directly participate in the watering process. On average, one watering of 100 m2 requires at least one hour of time.

Despite its primitiveness and extreme simplicity, in fact, this is the most effective method of watering in such conditions, especially if, in addition to irrigation, it is necessary to perform fertilizing, protection from weeds and pests, fluffing up the beds and annual plowing of the soil. It is clear that such irrigation systems are used only in conditions of unlimited water supplies, for example, from a nearby river or pond.

Sprinkler systems for summer residents

Most summer cottages, due to their location, size and layout, are not suitable for watering with towed installations; on 6-10 hundredths of the land, it is easier and more reliable to install several portable water spraying installations. The efficiency of such irrigation systems is lower than that of drip structures, but the simplicity and reliability of irrigation equipment have made raincoats and sprinklers, or, as they are also called, sprinklers, the most popular among the average summer resident or gardener.

Irrigation system options:


More powerful pivot sprinkler systems are designed like a fire nozzle mounted on a steel support with a circular hinge. An aluminum cheek or blade with a counterweight is installed on the side surface of the metal barrel. Under the action of the counterweight, the blade rotates, falls under the pressure of a stream of water and is thrown to the side. As a result, the irrigation trunk rotates at a small angle of 1-2 degrees. In 12 hours of continuous irrigation, the irrigation system rotates 180-270° and covers an area of ​​150-200 m2.

The irrigation system does not require constant human intervention to operate. It is enough to configure the automatic shutdown of the electric pump and ensure the proper functioning of the water intake in the well or the nearest water source.

An example of an effective scheme for country watering

An example of the most sophisticated and fully functional sprinkler installation is the Gardena irrigation system. Today, the installation includes more than a dozen special devices and mechanisms that ensure efficient water supply, both by sprinkler and drip methods.

What is her secret? In versatility and high adaptability of water supply to any conditions. The irrigation system kit includes:

  1. A powerful and at the same time lightweight vortex pump, capable of drawing water from a depth of up to 5 m without immersion in a well;
  2. A set of hoses of various diameters and lengths with connectors, splitters and adapters. In 15-20 minutes you can assemble a system up to 100 m long from hoses;
  3. System of tips and water sprays;
  4. Electronic devices for dosing water and recording watering time;
  5. Plumbing tapes and drippers - tips for organizing spot watering.

Essentially, this is a kind of construction kit for adults that allows you to assemble an irrigation installation of any complexity and power.

Channel irrigation systems

The rather forgotten channel irrigation systems are now getting a chance to regain popularity. This scheme takes advantage of the terrain features, the flow of rainwater flowing from territories and areas located higher up the slope is collected in a long and wide mini-pool. From there, through channels dug in the ground and lined with concrete, the flow of water is directed to the beds, shrubs, and trees.

A simple device consisting of a pair of plastic bottles attached to a swinging gutter is used as an irrigation timer for gravity systems. As water is consumed, the float lowers, and the gutter through which excess water from the pool is poured stops the supply of moisture to the channel system.

To reduce water loss, in hot weather, the channels are covered with gratings made from slabs or wooden planks. A simple system of aqueducts in the manner of Roman aqueducts is now wildly popular in suburban and dacha areas. Although, in addition to the fashion for a new element of the landscape, the aqueduct also has very real advantages:

  • Absolute independence of the irrigation system from the availability of electricity on the site and proper operation of the automation;
  • A very simple scheme for regulating water supply using blade valves. In the same way, excess water in the pool during rain is switched to rain drainage channels;
  • Efficient use of water, not inferior to drip irrigation, without the risk of increasing the number of weeds in the beds due to thoughtless spilling of water, as is the case with sprinklers;
  • The service life of a canal irrigation system, built according to all the rules, will easily exceed 40-50 years, and when lining aqueducts with sandstone, the service life can be doubled or tripled. Some villages still have a vegetable garden irrigation system built over 150 years ago from fired tiles.

The channel irrigation system has one drawback - to effectively use water, the gardener has to directly participate in the distribution of water flowing from the channel along the beds. As a rule, due to skillful blocking and redirection of the flow, it is possible to water the beds and trees without interference, even in the most hellish heat.

Most of the water enters the underground layers of soil along the periphery of the plant root system; the upper loosened layer remains almost dry. When mulching, the material remains in working condition almost the entire season. In the same way, you can water gooseberries, currants, seedlings and even mature trees, without creating swamps and thickets of weeds on the site.

There is a more modern channel irrigation system, in which instead of channels, perforated polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are laid in the ground. Such a gravity irrigation system no longer requires human presence, but turns out to be sensitive to clogging of holes in the walls. Sometimes the pipes are wrapped with plaster plastic mesh and geotextiles, but still regularly, once a season, the irrigation system has to be flushed with a stream of high-pressure water.

The most beautiful option is to use a gravity channel irrigation system with water taken from a well using a windmill. To fill a pool with a daily supply of water, a 4 m high tower with a blade wheel span of up to 2 m is sufficient. A gentle wind of 4-5 m/s allows you to lift water from a depth of up to 4 m with a flow rate of 150-200 l/h. This is enough to water the beds on 2-3 acres of garden.

Drip or spot irrigation systems

Organizing drip irrigation at a summer cottage allows you to get by with “little expense,” as they say. For example, if the spring-summer was not too dry, then it is quite possible to use stored rainwater for a drip system, but this will require building an entire plantation of film to collect rainfall.

Typical device for spot irrigation of a summer cottage

A point or drip supply of water allows you to get by with an order of magnitude less moisture, only due to its correct supply to the roots of plants. It is clear that better results can be obtained by using branded components and components.

In the simplest case, a domestic Zhuk irrigation system is purchased for $120-160, which is customized to the size and characteristics of your site. The “dripper” includes a set of tape hoses, a main water conduit, a mass of tees and 20 pieces of drippers. This is enough to water and feed one tomato plantation of 20 bushes.

From several sets of the Beetle you can power the entire summer cottage, but you will need to additionally acquire an automation system, a pump and a water tank, since they are not included in the kit.

For country houses with a large lawn, a huge vineyard, a garden and a vegetable garden, you can buy the American Hunter irrigation system. This design has an abundance of automation, there are humidity sensors, there is a timer and automatic irrigation control, and even systems that monitor air humidity, solar radiation and evaporation.

All Hunter parts, from containers to dividers and solenoid valves, are made of impact-resistant polypropylene. It is not afraid of temperature changes, frost, or clogging. Hunter's service life is almost two decades. The cost of an irrigation system depends on the irrigated area. For an irrigated area of ​​1 hundredth you will have to pay almost 700 dollars, for 11 hundredths - only 1500 dollars. The larger the dacha, the lower the cost of irrigation with a system of one hundredth.

The advantages of the system include its high autonomy. For example, you can leave a vegetable garden at your dacha for a week and not worry that the vegetation will die due to a lack of water in the irrigation system.

Hunter is ideal for very large plantations that require automated control of watering and fertilizing of plants; in small gardens it is easiest to water manually or using the Zhuk system.

Which is better from droppers

Despite the obvious technological gap between the Beetle and the Hunter, the demand for simple drip irrigation systems is much higher than for the automated version. There is a completely reasonable explanation for this. During the gardening season, what is required is not so much an automated, but rather a reliable water supply. Any drip point irrigation system is extremely sensitive to water quality.

The more suspended matter and clay particles, the stronger and more often the thin holes of the arrows in the system become clogged. The water has to be settled and passed through sand filters, but still salts and clay microparticles clog the irrigation equipment.

Despite a certain mistrust on the part of gardeners, drip irrigation systems are ideal for watering shrubs and garden trees. In summer, the roots need water in small quantities, but constantly. This allows, in addition to the flow of nutrients to the root zones, to provide increased humidity in the crown of a tree or shrub. As a result, the plantings easily survive even the hottest weather and drought. Sprinkler irrigation systems are much less effective in this regard.

For spot irrigation, a small excess pressure of 1.5-2 At at the inlet and 0.5 At in the working line is sufficient. In some cases, a point irrigation system works successfully without any pump; it is enough to raise the water supply container to a height of 4-5 m above ground level.

Individual option for watering plants

Drippers have several small but significant disadvantages, namely, moisture is supplied to the plant roots at almost one point. For the system itself, this does not matter, since capillary forces “stretch” the irrigation moisture over an area of ​​4-6 cm. Plants suffer first of all - a wet spot on the roots becomes the main source of disease.

For example, after the operation of a sprinkler irrigation system, the top leaves of tomatoes, eggplants, strawberries, cucumbers, and shrubs remain wet for a maximum of 30-50 minutes. Even if some microflora is present in water droplets, the sun and wind remove and destroy most of the pathogens. In spot irrigation, everything is different - wet soil and shading create conditions for rotting of the upper part of the root mass.

Therefore, spot irrigation is often supplemented with individual irrigation systems. What is it? Structurally, these are individual containers installed on racks or wooden planks next to the plant. This is usually a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and a hole in the cork. A solution containing top dressing or fertilizers that the crop needs is poured into a liter container of the irrigation system.

The most advanced and sophisticated irrigation systems provide for the supply of water to the root system using an underground container with perforated walls. Usually, when planting seedlings, an empty plastic bottle with holes in the side wall is buried in a vertical position next to the plant. It is enough to make 2-3 rows of holes on the side of the plant with a nail. To prevent the irrigation system from becoming contaminated with liquid soil, sometimes the bottle is wrapped in an old nylon stocking or sock. This is not difficult to do, especially since there is always plenty of material for a homemade irrigation system.

In the first stages, while the seedlings take root in the garden bed, a small amount of water is added to the bottle every two days, but without fertilizers. After the seedlings begin to grow, they add fertilizer and after a couple of weeks they switch to a drip irrigation system. Remove the cap from the bottle and leave it open. Such an irrigation system begins to work as a ventilation pipe, providing a constant flow of air and removing excess moisture.

At the stage of fruiting of tomatoes and eggplants, the buried bottles are simply connected through a cork to an additional tape water conduit from drip irrigation. This is easiest to do with a needle from a blood transfusion system. As a result of the modified irrigation system, plants receive sufficient moisture even during the driest periods of summer.

In approximately the same way, you can organize watering of shrubs and garden trees. To do this, 3-5 bottles are buried in the root system, through which most of the water gets under the rhizomes. But it is worth remembering that in the summer, shrubs and trees receive most of the moisture through the crown, so such a design is not able to completely replace a sprinkler or drip-spot irrigation system.

Conclusion

Watering garden crops has always been and remains a difficult task, requiring accuracy and patience, so it makes sense to shift most of the work to sprinkler and drip systems. A complete transition to automatic irrigation systems today is only possible in greenhouses and greenhouses, where this is critically important. For the entire summer cottage, the use of fully automated irrigation systems is still quite expensive. And most importantly, water supply systems do not provide adequate operational reliability. One accident in the summer heat can cause the destruction of the entire crop.